The Texture of Change: Dress, Self-Fashioning and History in Western Africa, 1700–1850, Jody Benjamin
Автор: Heike Jenss Название: Fashioning Memory: Vintage Style and Youth Culture ISBN: 1350024368 ISBN-13(EAN): 9781350024366 Издательство: Bloomsbury Academic Рейтинг: Цена: 5009.00 р. Наличие на складе: Есть у поставщика Поставка под заказ.
Описание: The valuing of old clothes as "vintage+? and the recollection of the sartorial past, whether through second-hand consumption or the wearing of new old-fashioned clothes, has become a widespread phenomenon. This book illuminates sartorial and bodily engagements with memory and time through the temporal and nostalgic potency of fashion, and what this means for contemporary wearers.
Based on in-depth ethnographic research including participant observation and interviews with sixties enthusiasts in Germany, who relocate British mod style into the twenty-first century, Jenss examines the practices and experiences that are part of the sartorial remembering of "the sixties, +? from hunting flea markets and eBay, to the affect of material and mediated memories on vintage wearers.
Jenss offers unique insights into the fashioning of time, cultural memory, and modernity, tracing the history and current appeal of vintage in fashion and youth culture, and asking: what kind of experiences of temporality and memory are enacted through fashion? How have evaluations of second-hand clothes shifted in the twentieth century? Fashioning Memory provides a unique insight into the diverse use of fashion as a memory mode and asks how style is remembered, performed, transformed, and reinvested across time, place, and generation.
Автор: Maria Mackinney-Valentin Название: Fashioning Identity: Status Ambivalence in Contemporary Fashion ISBN: 1350100668 ISBN-13(EAN): 9781350100664 Издательство: Macmillan USA Рейтинг: Цена: 4593.00 р. Наличие на складе: Есть у поставщика Поставка под заказ.
Описание: We dress to communicate who we are, or who we would like others to think we are, telling seductive fashion narratives through our adornment. Yet, today, fashion has been democratized through high-low collaborations, social media and real-time fashion mediation, complicating the basic dynamic of identity displays, and creating tension between personal statements and social performances. Fashioning Identity explores how this tension is performed through fashion production and consumption,by examining a diverse series of case studies - from ninety-year old fashion icons to the paradoxical rebellion in 'normcore', and from soccer jerseys in Kenya to heavy metal band T-shirts in Europe. Through these cases, the role of time, gender, age memory, novelty, copying, the body and resistance are considered within the context of the contemporary fashion scene. Offering a fresh approach to the subject by readdressing Fred Davis’ seminal concept of ‘identity ambivalence’ in Fashion, Culture and Identity (1992), Mackinney-Valentin argues that we are in an epoch of ‘status ambivalence’, in which fashioning one’s own identity has become increasingly complicated.
Автор: , Eicher Joanne B. Название: Fashioning the Victorians: A Critical Sourcebook ISBN: 135002340X ISBN-13(EAN): 9781350023406 Издательство: Bloomsbury Academic Рейтинг: Цена: 5587.00 р. Наличие на складе: Есть у поставщика Поставка под заказ.
Описание:
Offering a unique anthology of primary texts, this sourcebook opens a window on the writing that shaped and mirrored Victorian fashion, taking us from corsets to crinolines, dandies to decadent 'New Women'. A user-friendly collection that provides a solid grounding in the fashion history of the nineteenth century, it brings together for the first time sources that trace the evolution of dress and the social, cultural and political discourses that influenced it.
Featuring seminal writings by authors and commentators such as Oscar Wilde, Thorstein Veblen and Sarah Stickney Ellis, plus satirical cartoons, illustrations and fashion plates from key sources such as Punch magazine, it combines primary texts and illustrations with accessible explanatory notes to offer a wide-ranging overview of the period for both students and researchers. Each section opens with an introduction that examines the major trends in Victorian clothing - and the material, economic, scientific and cultural forces driving those trends - situating the texts in the pressing social anxieties and pleasures of the time. Exploring both menswear and womenswear, and key topics such as corsetry, dress reform and mourning, Mitchell extends her analysis into interdisciplinary fields including gender studies and literature, and guides the reader with a timeline, glossary and further readings.
The Texture of Change examines historical change across a broad region of western Africa—from Saint Louis, Senegal, to Freetown, Sierra Leone—through the development of textile commerce, consumption, and dress. Indigo-dyed and printed cotton, wool, linen, and silk cloths constituted major trade items that linked African producers and consumers to exchange networks that were both regional and global. While much of the historiography of commerce in Africa in the eighteenth century has focused on the Atlantic slave trade and its impact, this study follows the global cloth trade to account for the broad extent and multiple modes of western Africa’s engagement with Europe, Asia, and the Americas. Jody Benjamin analyzes a range of archival, visual, oral, and material sources drawn from three continents to illuminate entanglements between local textile industries and global commerce and between the politics of Islamic reform and encroaching European colonial power. The study highlights the roles of a diverse range of historical actors mentioned only glancingly in core-periphery or Atlantic-centered framings: women indigo dyers, maroon cotton farmers, petty traveling merchants, caravan guides, and African Diaspora settlers. It argues that their combined choices within a set of ecological, political, and economic constraints structured networks connecting the Atlantic and Indian Ocean perimeters.
Автор: Rachel Lifter Название: Fashioning Indie: Popular Fashion, Music and Gender ISBN: 1350238074 ISBN-13(EAN): 9781350238077 Издательство: Bloomsbury Academic Рейтинг: Цена: 6165.00 р. Наличие на складе: Есть у поставщика Поставка под заказ.
Описание: In 2005, British supermodel Kate Moss went to Glastonbury with her then-boyfriend, indie rocker Pete Doherty. Their unwashed appearance captured widespread attention, propelling the British indie music scene and its signature look-slender bodies clad in skinny jeans-to the center of popular fashion.
Using this fashionable watershed as a launching point, Fashioning Indie narrates indie's evolution: from a 1980s British music subculture into a 21st-century international fashion phenomenon. It explores the lucrative transformation of indie style, first into high concept menswear and later into "festival fashion"-a womenswear phenomenon that remade what indie looked like and provided a launching point to reimagine who the ideal subject of indie could be.
Fashioning Indieis essential reading for academic and popular audiences, offering an original account of what happens when a subculture is incorporated into the commercial fashion system. As the music and fashions of festivals face increasing scrutiny in debates about diversity and inclusion, and the transformations of indie style coincide with the global expansion of the second-hand retail sector, the book offers also essential insights into the broader culture of popular fashion in the 21st century and the values that inform it.
Автор: Rachel Lifter Название: Fashioning Indie: Popular Fashion, Music and Gender ISBN: 1350126322 ISBN-13(EAN): 9781350126329 Издательство: Bloomsbury Academic Рейтинг: Цена: 18308.00 р. Наличие на складе: Есть у поставщика Поставка под заказ.
Описание:
When indie rocker Pete Doherty began a relationship with supermodel Kate Moss in 2005, the British indie music scene, which first appeared in the 1980s, became mainstream. Its signature look-slender bodies clad in skinny jeans-had reached the height of popular fashion.
With in-depth research into the lucrative transformation of indie style first into high concept menswear and later into the womenswear phenomenon known as "festival fashion," Fashioning Indie provides a unique account of what happens when a subculture is incorporated into the commercial fashion system.
Rachel Lifter argues that, amidst these changes, the ideal figure of indie also transformed: from a slender, white, guitar-playing man into the festival fashionista. Celebrated for her "individual style," the festival fashionista also proved to be an ideal subject of 21st-century popular fashion, wherein the lines between alternative style and mainstream fashion cultures blurred.
As the music and fashions of festivals face increasing scrutiny in debates about diversity and inclusion, and the transformations of indie style coincide with the global expansion of the second-hand retail sector, Fashioning Indie provides essential insights into the broader culture of popular fashion in the 21st century and the values that inform it.
Автор: Heike Jenss Название: Fashioning Memory: Vintage Style and Youth Culture ISBN: 147257396X ISBN-13(EAN): 9781472573964 Издательство: Bloomsbury Academic Рейтинг: Цена: 25054.00 р. Наличие на складе: Есть у поставщика Поставка под заказ.
Описание: The valuing of old clothes as "vintage]? and the recollection of the sartorial past, whether through second-hand consumption or the wearing of new old-fashioned clothes, has become a widespread phenomenon. This book illuminates sartorial and bodily engagements with memory and time through the temporal and nostalgic potency of fashion, and what this means for contemporary wearers.
Based on in-depth ethnographic research including participant observation and interviews with sixties enthusiasts in Germany, who relocate British mod style into the twenty-first century, Jenss examines the practices and experiences that are part of the sartorial remembering of "the sixties, +? from hunting flea markets and eBay, to the affect of material and mediated memories on vintage wearers.
Jenss offers unique insights into the fashioning of time, cultural memory, and modernity, tracing the history and current appeal of vintage in fashion and youth culture, and asking: what kind of experiences of temporality and memory are enacted through fashion? How have evaluations of second-hand clothes shifted in the twentieth century? Fashioning Memory provides a unique insight into the diverse use of fashion as a memory mode and asks how style is remembered, performed, transformed, and reinvested across time, place, and generation.
Автор: Shoshana-Rose Marzel, Guy D. Stiebel Название: Dress and Ideology: Fashioning Identity from Antiquity to the Present ISBN: 1472525493 ISBN-13(EAN): 9781472525499 Издательство: Bloomsbury Academic Рейтинг: Цена: 23126.00 р. Наличие на складе: Есть у поставщика Поставка под заказ.
Описание:
Dress and fashion are powerful visual means of communicating ideology, whether political, social or religious. From the communist values of equality, simplicity and solidarity exemplified in the Mao suit to the myriad of fashion protests of feminists such as French revolutionary women's demand to wear trousers, dress can symbolize ideological orthodoxy as well as revolt.
With contributions from a wide range of international scholars, this book presents the first scholarly analysis of dress and ideology through accessible case studies. Chapters are organized thematically and explore dress in relation to topics including nation, identity, religion, politics and utopias, across an impressive chronological reach from antiquity to the present day.
Dress & Ideology will appeal to students and scholars of fashion, history, sociology, cultural studies, politics and gender studies.
Описание: Examining the dynamics between subject, photographer and viewer, Fashioning Brazil analyses how Brazilians have appropriated and reinterpreted clothing influences from local and global cultures. Exploring the various ways in which Brazil has been fashioned by the pioneering scientific and educational magazine, National Geographic, the book encourages us to look beyond simplistic representations of exotic difference. Instead, it brings to light an extensive history of self-fashioning within Brazil, which has emerged through cross-cultural contact, slavery, and immigration.
Providing an in-depth examination of Brazilian dress and fashion practices as represented by the quasi-ethnographic gaze of National Geographic and National Geographic Brazil(the Portuguese language edition of the magazine, established in 2000), the book unpacks a series of case studies. Taking us from body paint to Lycra, via loincloths and bikinis, Kutesko frames her analysis within the historical, cultural, and political context of Latin American interactions with the United States.
Exploring how dress can be used to manipulate identity and disrupt expectations, Fashioning Brazil examines readers' sensory engagements with an iconic magazine, and sheds new light on key debates concerning global dress and fashion.
A reading of Van Gogh’s collected correspondence by way of aset of ideas about dialogue and self-fashioning derived especially fromMikhail Bakhtin. Patrick Grant’s central claim is that VanGogh’s letters raise from within themselves questions and issuesto which they also respond dialogically, thereby thematizing theprocess of self-fashioning within their own discourse. The manner inwhich they do so is a marker of the specifically literary dimension ofVan Gogh’s writing. Complementing Grant’s earlier criticalanalysis, The Letters of Vincent van Gogh: A Critical Study(AU Press, 2014), this study brings Van Gogh’s collectedcorrespondence fully into the domain of modern literary studies, bothcritical and theoretical—as is long overdue.
Автор: Erin Griffey Название: Sartorial politics in early modern europe ISBN: 9462986002 ISBN-13(EAN): 9789462986008 Издательство: INGRAM PUBLISHER SERVICES UK Рейтинг: Цена: 29568.00 р. Наличие на складе: Поставка под заказ.
Описание: This is the first collection of essays to examine how elite women in early modern Europe marshalled clothing and jewellery for political ends.
Автор: Jean Allman Название: Fashioning Africa: Power and the Politics of Dress ISBN: 0253216893 ISBN-13(EAN): 9780253216892 Издательство: Wiley EDC Рейтинг: Цена: 2915.00 р. Наличие на складе: Есть у поставщика Поставка под заказ.
Описание: Everywhere in the world there is a close connection between the clothes we wear and our political expression. To date, few scholars have explored what clothing means in 20th-century Africa and the diaspora. In Fashioning Africa, an international group of anthropologists, historians, and art historians bring rich and diverse perspectives to this fascinating topic. From clothing as an expression of freedom in early colonial Zanzibar to Somali women's headcovering in inner-city Minneapolis, these essays explore the power of dress in African and pan-African settings. Nationalist and diasporic identities, as well as their histories and politics, are examined at the level of what is put on the body every day. Readers interested in fashion history, material and expressive cultures, understandings of nation-state styles, and expressions of a distinctive African modernity will be engaged by this interdisciplinary and broadly appealing volume. Contributors are Heather Marie Akou, Jean Allman, A. Boatema Boateng, Judith Byfield, Laura Fair, Karen Tranberg Hansen, Margaret Jean Hay, Andrew M. Ivaska, Phyllis M. Martin, Marissa Moorman, Elisha P. Renne, and Victoria L. Rovine.
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