Fashioning Spain: From Mantillas to Rosalia, Francisco Fernandez de Alba, Marcela T. Garces
Автор: Heike Jenss Название: Fashioning Memory: Vintage Style and Youth Culture ISBN: 1350024368 ISBN-13(EAN): 9781350024366 Издательство: Bloomsbury Academic Рейтинг: Цена: 5009.00 р. Наличие на складе: Есть у поставщика Поставка под заказ.
Описание: The valuing of old clothes as "vintage+? and the recollection of the sartorial past, whether through second-hand consumption or the wearing of new old-fashioned clothes, has become a widespread phenomenon. This book illuminates sartorial and bodily engagements with memory and time through the temporal and nostalgic potency of fashion, and what this means for contemporary wearers.
Based on in-depth ethnographic research including participant observation and interviews with sixties enthusiasts in Germany, who relocate British mod style into the twenty-first century, Jenss examines the practices and experiences that are part of the sartorial remembering of "the sixties, +? from hunting flea markets and eBay, to the affect of material and mediated memories on vintage wearers.
Jenss offers unique insights into the fashioning of time, cultural memory, and modernity, tracing the history and current appeal of vintage in fashion and youth culture, and asking: what kind of experiences of temporality and memory are enacted through fashion? How have evaluations of second-hand clothes shifted in the twentieth century? Fashioning Memory provides a unique insight into the diverse use of fashion as a memory mode and asks how style is remembered, performed, transformed, and reinvested across time, place, and generation.
Автор: Julia Petrov, Gudrun D. Whitehead Название: Fashioning Horror: Dressing to Kill on Screen and in Literature ISBN: 1350133272 ISBN-13(EAN): 9781350133273 Издательство: Macmillan USA Рейтинг: Цена: 4318.00 р. Наличие на складе: Есть у поставщика Поставка под заказ.
Описание:
From Jack the Ripper to Frankenstein, Halloween customs to Alexander McQueen collections, Fashioning Horror examines how terror is fashioned visually, symbolically, and materially through fashion and costume, in literature, film, and real life.
With a series of case studies that range from sensationalist cinema and Slasher films to true crime and nineteenth-century literature, the volume investigates the central importance of clothing to the horror genre, and broadens our understanding of both material and popular culture. Arguing that dress is fundamental to our understanding of character and setting within horror, the chapters also reveal how the grotesque and horrific is at the center of fashion itself, with its potential for instability, disguise, and carnivalesque subversion.
Packed with original research, and bringing together a range of international scholars, the book is the first to thoroughly examine the aesthetics of terror and the role of fashion in the construction of horror.
Автор: Rachel Lifter Название: Fashioning Indie: Popular Fashion, Music and Gender ISBN: 1350126322 ISBN-13(EAN): 9781350126329 Издательство: Bloomsbury Academic Рейтинг: Цена: 18308.00 р. Наличие на складе: Есть у поставщика Поставка под заказ.
Описание:
When indie rocker Pete Doherty began a relationship with supermodel Kate Moss in 2005, the British indie music scene, which first appeared in the 1980s, became mainstream. Its signature look-slender bodies clad in skinny jeans-had reached the height of popular fashion.
With in-depth research into the lucrative transformation of indie style first into high concept menswear and later into the womenswear phenomenon known as "festival fashion," Fashioning Indie provides a unique account of what happens when a subculture is incorporated into the commercial fashion system.
Rachel Lifter argues that, amidst these changes, the ideal figure of indie also transformed: from a slender, white, guitar-playing man into the festival fashionista. Celebrated for her "individual style," the festival fashionista also proved to be an ideal subject of 21st-century popular fashion, wherein the lines between alternative style and mainstream fashion cultures blurred.
As the music and fashions of festivals face increasing scrutiny in debates about diversity and inclusion, and the transformations of indie style coincide with the global expansion of the second-hand retail sector, Fashioning Indie provides essential insights into the broader culture of popular fashion in the 21st century and the values that inform it.
Автор: Rachel Lifter Название: Fashioning Indie: Popular Fashion, Music and Gender ISBN: 1350238074 ISBN-13(EAN): 9781350238077 Издательство: Bloomsbury Academic Рейтинг: Цена: 6165.00 р. Наличие на складе: Есть у поставщика Поставка под заказ.
Описание: In 2005, British supermodel Kate Moss went to Glastonbury with her then-boyfriend, indie rocker Pete Doherty. Their unwashed appearance captured widespread attention, propelling the British indie music scene and its signature look-slender bodies clad in skinny jeans-to the center of popular fashion.
Using this fashionable watershed as a launching point, Fashioning Indie narrates indie's evolution: from a 1980s British music subculture into a 21st-century international fashion phenomenon. It explores the lucrative transformation of indie style, first into high concept menswear and later into "festival fashion"-a womenswear phenomenon that remade what indie looked like and provided a launching point to reimagine who the ideal subject of indie could be.
Fashioning Indieis essential reading for academic and popular audiences, offering an original account of what happens when a subculture is incorporated into the commercial fashion system. As the music and fashions of festivals face increasing scrutiny in debates about diversity and inclusion, and the transformations of indie style coincide with the global expansion of the second-hand retail sector, the book offers also essential insights into the broader culture of popular fashion in the 21st century and the values that inform it.
In her insightful study, Fashioning Diaspora, Vanita Reddy carefully maps how transnational itineraries of Indian beauty and fashion shape South Asian American cultural identities and racialized belonging from the 1990s to the late-2000s. She observes how diasporic subjects engage with and respond to various encounters with Indian beauty and fashion.
One of the first books to consider beauty and fashion as a point of entry into an examination of South Asian diasporic public cultures, Fashioning Diaspora examines a range of literature, visual art, and live performance. Through careful analyses of novels by Bharati Mukherjee and Jhumpa Lahiri, young adult literature, performance art by Shailja Patel, as well as objects of popular culture including an Indian American fashion doll, and beauty and adornment practices, Reddy challenges fashion and beauty as a set of dematerialized, overly commodified cultural practices. She argues instead that beauty and fashion structure South Asian Americans’ uneven access to social mobility, capital, and citizenship, and demonstrates their varying capacities to produce social attachments across national, class, racial, gender, and generational divides.
Автор: Cohen Название: Fashioning Masculinity ISBN: 0415756391 ISBN-13(EAN): 9780415756396 Издательство: Taylor&Francis Рейтинг: Цена: 7654.00 р. Наличие на складе: Есть у поставщика Поставка под заказ.
Описание: Fashioning Masculinity offers an innovative perspective on Anglo-French relations in the eighteenth century, bringing together the themes of gender, nationality, identity and masculinity. Cohen draws comparisons with perceptions of today.
Описание: Writing Celebrity is divided into three major sections. The first part traces the rise of a national celebrity culture in the United States and examines the impact that this culture had on "literary" writing in the decades before World War II.
Автор: Mitchell, Rebecca (university Of Birmingham, Uk) Название: Fashioning the victorians ISBN: 1350023396 ISBN-13(EAN): 9781350023390 Издательство: Bloomsbury Academic Рейтинг: Цена: 19272.00 р. Наличие на складе: Есть у поставщика Поставка под заказ.
Описание: Offering a unique anthology of primary texts, this sourcebook opens a window on the writing that shaped and mirrored Victorian fashion, taking us from corsets to crinolines, dandies to decadent 'New Women'. A user-friendly collection that provides a solid grounding in the fashion history of the nineteenth century, it brings together for the first time sources that trace the evolution of dress and the social, cultural and political discourses that influenced it.
Featuring seminal writings by authors and commentators such as Oscar Wilde, Thorstein Veblen and Sarah Stickney Ellis, plus satirical cartoons, illustrations and fashion plates from key sources such as Punch magazine, it combines primary texts and illustrations with accessible explanatory notes to offer a wide-ranging overview of the period for both students and researchers.
Each section opens with an introduction that examines the major trends in Victorian clothing - and the material, economic, scientific and cultural forces driving those trends - situating the texts in the pressing social anxieties and pleasures of the time. Exploring both menswear and womenswear, and key topics such as corsetry, dress reform and mourning, Mitchell extends her analysis into interdisciplinary fields including gender studies and literature, and guides the reader with a timeline, glossary and further readings.
From artist to curator, couturier to fashion blogger, 'creative' professional identities can be viewed as social practices, enacted, performed and negotiated through the media, the public, and industry. Fashioning Professionals addresses what it means to be a creative professional, historically and in the digital age, as new ways of working and doing business have given rise to new professional identities.
Bringing together critical reflections from international researchers, the book spans fashion, design, art, architecture, and advertising. It examines both traditional and emergent roles in creative industries, from advertising executives and surrealist artists to mannequin designers, pop stylists, bloggers, makers and design curators. The book reveals how professional identities are continually in a state of fashioning, through style, taste, gender and cultural representation, highlighting moments of friction and flux in the creative labour of the global economy. Interweaving critical perspectives from fashion and design history with sociology and cultural theory, Fashioning Professionals addresses a burgeoning area of research as we enter new terrain in fashion and the creative industries.
Описание: This work explores the history of costume in British film, from the 1920s to the 1990s. It shows how period costume romances, such as "Caravan", featured sensual designs which caused a scandal in postwar society, and it explains the cultural implications of this scandal.
Описание: Based on years of archival research in Madrid and Barcelona, this interdisciplinary study offers a fresh approach to understanding how men visualized themselves and their place in a nation that struggled to modernize after nearly a century of civil war, colonial entanglement, and imperial loss. Masculine Figures is the first study to provide a comprehensive overview of competing models of masculinity in nineteenth-century Spain, and is particularly novel in its treatment of Catalan texts and previously unstudied evidence (e.g., department store catalogs, commercial advertisements, fashion plates, and men’s tailoring journals).
Fictional masculinity performs a symbolic role in representing and negotiating the contradictions male novelists often encountered in their attempts to professionalize not only as writers, but also as businessmen, professors, lawyers, and politicians. Through specific and recurring figures like the student, the priest, the businessman, and the heir, male novelists represent an increasingly middle-class world at odds with the values and virtues it inherited from an imperial Spanish past, and those it imported from more industrialized nations like England and France. The visual culture of the time and place marks the material turn in middle-class masculinity and sets the stage for discussions of race and sexuality.
Significant chapter sections on the used clothing trade (in the Rastro flea market in Madrid, also called “Las AmÉricas” during the nineteenth century) and the "indiano businessman" (the colonial returnee) discuss the racial implications of fashion of the period—in the first example, through the racialized discourse of contagion that hygienists used to frame the market. In the second example, the book discusses the ways the Catalan indiano “accessorizes” himself with racialized commodities like pocket watches and tobacco and objectified/infantilized figures like Black house servants and footmen.
Описание: Based on years of archival research in Madrid and Barcelona, this interdisciplinary study offers a fresh approach to understanding how men visualized themselves and their place in a nation that struggled to modernize after nearly a century of civil war, colonial entanglement, and imperial loss. Masculine Figures is the first study to provide a comprehensive overview of competing models of masculinity in nineteenth-century Spain, and is particularly novel in its treatment of Catalan texts and previously unstudied evidence (e.g., department store catalogs, commercial advertisements, fashion plates, and men’s tailoring journals).
Fictional masculinity performs a symbolic role in representing and negotiating the contradictions male novelists often encountered in their attempts to professionalize not only as writers, but also as businessmen, professors, lawyers, and politicians. Through specific and recurring figures like the student, the priest, the businessman, and the heir, male novelists represent an increasingly middle-class world at odds with the values and virtues it inherited from an imperial Spanish past, and those it imported from more industrialized nations like England and France. The visual culture of the time and place marks the material turn in middle-class masculinity and sets the stage for discussions of race and sexuality.
Significant chapter sections on the used clothing trade (in the Rastro flea market in Madrid, also called “Las AmÉricas” during the nineteenth century) and the "indiano businessman" (the colonial returnee) discuss the racial implications of fashion of the period—in the first example, through the racialized discourse of contagion that hygienists used to frame the market. In the second example, the book discusses the ways the Catalan indiano “accessorizes” himself with racialized commodities like pocket watches and tobacco and objectified/infantilized figures like Black house servants and footmen.
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