The dressmaking trade developed rapidly during the 18th and 19th centuries, changing the lives of thousands of British workers. Busks, Basques and Brush-Braid focuses on the trade and the people within it, from their working conditions and earnings to their training, services and relationships with customers.
Exploring the lives of dressmakers in fact and fiction, the book looks at representations of the trade in the plays and novels of the time, while surveying the often harsh realities of the workers' lives. From the arrival of the sewing machine to the influence of the department store, it explores the impact of mechanization, commercialization and modernity on a historical trade. Pamela Inder illuminates a new world of dressmaking enabled by goods like paper patterns and magazines, and sets out to investigate the increasing monopoly of female dressmakers in an industry once dominated by male tailors. Drawing on a range of original and hitherto unpublished sources - including business records, diaries, letters, bills and newspaper articles - Busks, Basques and Brush-Braid reveals the untold story of the dressmaking trade. Beautifully illustrated with over 80 images, the book brings dressmakers into focus as real people, granting new insights into working class life in 18th- and 19th-century Britain.
Описание: Chanel suits, Louis Vuitton bags and Omega watches are now objects that embody a globalized material culture. Over the past 30 years, the luxury goods industry has undergone a tremendous expansion around the world. However, it remains largely dominated by European companies, ranging from diversified conglomerates such as LVMH and Richemont to independent companies such as the Italian fashion houses Armani and Ermenegildo Zegna, and industrial groups like Swatch and L'Oreal or new start-ups such as Richard Mille.
How and why did these companies succeed? How did they manage to transform a sector previously dominated by small family firms into a global big business? Selling Europe to the World presents the development of the global luxury goods industry from the 1980s to the present day. It highlights the strategies implemented by a new generation of entrepreneurs and explains, beyond the glamorous image conveyed by luxury brands, the sources of success of these firms. An essential book for understanding the success of the contemporary luxury industry.
Автор: Renfrew, Elinor (kingston University, Uk) Lynn, To Название: Developing a fashion collection ISBN: 1350132551 ISBN-13(EAN): 9781350132559 Издательство: Bloomsbury Academic Рейтинг: Цена: 4682.00 р. 5202.00-10% Наличие на складе: Есть (1 шт.) Описание: How do fashion designers conceive of, develop and ultimately launch commercially and creatively successful collections? Developing a Fashion Collection walks you through the process, exploring research techniques, sources of inspiration, forecasting trends and designing for different markets.
From couture to high street, knitwear to accessories and covering the implications of online shopping – there's advice on every aspect of creating your collection through 27 insightful interviews with international practitioners. Interviewees include John Mooney, Brand Creative Director at ASOS and Jane Palmer Williams, Head of Executive Development at LVMH.
This 3rd edition also covers silhouette, fittings and final samples, sustainable practice, developing high street collections, fabric selection and finding inspiration through vintage designs.
Автор: Rex Butler Название: Rei Kawakubo: For and Against Fashion ISBN: 1350118222 ISBN-13(EAN): 9781350118225 Издательство: Bloomsbury Academic Рейтинг: Цена: 17345.00 р. Наличие на складе: Поставка под заказ.
Описание: The Japanese fashion designer Rei Kawakubo of Comme des Garcons is undoubtedly one of the world's major fashion designers. In 2017 she was the second living designer to ever be given a retrospective at the renowned Costume Institute of the Metropolitan Museum of Art in New York. Her work exerts an extraordinary influence over succeeding generations of designers and is a major point of reference for all those wishing to explore the place of fashion in contemporary culture.
The 14 essays in this collection, written by eminent fashion theorists from around the world, ask what is the relationship of Kawakubo's work to art, philosophy and architecture, and ultimately illustrate how Kawakubo's creative output allows us to understand the very notion of fashion itself.
Thin body, white skin, and big eyes. Such beauty ideals are ubiquitous across Shanghai, where salons and weight-loss clinics offering an array of products and treatment options beckon city dwellers with promises of a "better life." Set against the backdrop of China's post-reform era, Modified Bodies, Material Selves compares the radically different attitudes of middle-class Chinese and Western women living in Shanghai toward the pursuit of beauty. Through comparative ethnography, anthropologist Julie E. Starr parses how experiences of bodies and embodied identities, and the politics ascribed to them, are culturally produced for both groups of women. With a focus on the ways in which late capitalism interacts with different bodies, Starr joins an ongoing conversation about the impact of recent economic reforms on social life in China.
Bringing together theories of embodiment, the politics of appearance, and the bodily nature of selfhood in the twenty-first century, Modified Bodies, Material Selves contributes fresh insights to current debates in anthropology, women’s and gender studies, and East Asian studies.
Описание: Blockchain technology has come a long way since the initial vision published by Satoshi Nakamoto in 2008. Big buzz words like "bitcoin," "blockchain," and "cryptocurrency" are everywhere. Companies and governments have started to use blockchain technology in earnest and will increasingly do so for the foreseeable future. This book takes an in-depth look at blockchain technology and how users can take advantage of its potential. Since its initial conception, blockchain has encompassed both a social promise and new technology. Originally proposed as a solution for Bitcoin`s cryptocurrency record-keeping system, blockchains are now used to store the records of all types of applications. Core services we all depend on like the transfer of money, voting, land records, IP rights, and identity all rely on intermediaries. Blockchain software has begun taking the place of these antiquated systems. The software becomes the trusted record-keeping system, and the rules programed into the software become the intermediaries. This book explains the fundamentals of blockchain technology and assumes that the reader has little to no knowledge of the subject. Topics are explained as simply as possible, while not obscuring details that may affect the reader. It also gives the reader insight into the critical differences in blockchain software and will provide them with a basic understanding of how and why these systems work. After reading this book, the reader will be able to speak with confidence on the topic, know key differences in technology. The reader will also have critical insight into blockchain software`s inherent limitations and shortcomings. This book is also the definitive guide to the Blockchain Technology Foundation (BTF) exam from EXIN. It will prepare the reader for the test, and each chapter ends with review questions for extra guidance in preparing for the exam.
Автор: Balogun Oluwakemi M. Название: Beauty Diplomacy: Embodying an Emerging Nation ISBN: 1503610977 ISBN-13(EAN): 9781503610972 Издательство: Mare Nostrum (Eurospan) Рейтинг: Цена: 3762.00 р. Наличие на складе: Поставка под заказ.
Описание:
Even as beauty pageants have been critiqued as misogynistic and dated cultural vestiges of the past in the US and elsewhere, the pageant industry is growing in popularity across the Global South, and Nigeria is one of the countries at the forefront of this trend. In a country with over 1,000 reported pageants, these events are more than superficial forms of entertainment. Beauty Diplomacy takes us inside the world of Nigerian beauty contests to see how they are transformed into contested vehicles for promoting complex ideas about gender and power, ethnicity and belonging, and a rapidly changing articulation of Nigerian nationhood. Drawing on four case studies of beauty pageants, this book examines how Nigeria's changing position in the global political economy and existing cultural tensions inform varied forms of embodied nationalism, where contestants are expected to integrate recognizable elements of Nigerian cultural identity while also conveying a narrative of a newly-emerging, globally-relevant Nigeria. Oluwakemi M. Balogun critically examines Nigerian pageants in the context of major transitions within the nation-state, using these events as a lens through which to understand Nigerian national identity and international relations.
Автор: Andrea Kennedy, Andrea Reyes, Francesco Venezia Название: Apparel Costing ISBN: 1350065404 ISBN-13(EAN): 9781350065406 Издательство: Bloomsbury Academic Рейтинг: Цена: 4431.00 р. Наличие на складе: Есть у поставщика Поставка под заказ.
Описание: Newcomers to the fashion industry often base costings on the sum of a style’s fabric, trims and labor—and to that they simply add their markup. However, every other activity of the business erodes that markup, and they find themselves with an unsustainable profit—or a loss. This guide will help you avoid these pitfalls to guarantee a sustainable profit. Apparel Costing details traditional and current costing methods for the fast-paced and e-commerce-focused fashion marketplace. You will learn industry-specific product/style costing that can be applied to garments produced both locally and globally. You'll also learn how to calculate line item percentages on indirect cost factors, such as factory sourcing, overhead, administration and product development. Key topics include: Target Market Pricing; Variable vs Fixed Costs; Direct vs Indirect Cost Factors; Cost-Based vs Value-Based Costing; Domestic vs International Production Costing; Effect of Sourcing on Costing; Sustainability in Costing; Fast Fashion vs. Slow Fashion
Beginning with Alexander McQueen's infamous attempt to live stream his 2009 Plato's Atlantis collection on SHOWStudio, this book traces how digital and social media have disrupted social structures within the field of fashion, and transformed the way it is communicated and consumed. Analysing key case studies, from Chanel, Givenchy, Yeezy and Opening Cermony to interactive social media and 'see now buy now' campaigns from Burberry, Topshop and Tommy Hilfiger, The Fashion Show Goes Live analyses the mode and impact of fashion shows' transmission. Through the rise of experimental film, fashion shows tailored for media transmission and the use of live streaming and social media to render shows 'immediate' to consumers, fashion weeks - and fashion shows - have become not just trend barometers but material sites that demonstrate media's effects.
Rebecca Halliday evaluates the performativity of consumer relations to such live streams and other mediatized content. In linking these relations back to fashion show footage, she demonstrates that although intended to communicate fashion to mass audiences, these practices also promote it as exclusive and aspirational. Despite democratized, international access to content, the shows themselves remain elite events; kindling new forms of consumer attention, interaction, immaterial labour and desire. Through the microcosm of the fashion show, The Fashion Show Goes Live asks broader socio-political questions about the effects of the fashion industry's mediatization, challenging the notion that new technology has fostered inclusivity.
Описание: Since the democratisation of the clothing industry in the early 19th century, buyers have become increasingly disconnected from the creative and human aspects of the production of clothing. Arguably clothing is now valued less for its aesthetic qualities or because of the hours spent in its making, but more for the extent to which it serves current ‘fashion’. In a climate of increasing anxiety about the environmental and social impact of the contemporary global fashion industry, Rachel Worth suggests that, rather than seeking solutions only in the present, looking to history can assist in understanding better the challenges consumers face today in making decisions about the contents of their wardrobes, which, in turn, will impact on the nature of the future global fashion industry. She does not seek to offer simplistic historical solutions to contemporary problems, but explores ways in which it might be possible to bridge divides between knowledge of the past, current individual choice, and possible directions for future action. The more we know about our clothes, the less likely it is that we will wear an item of clothing only a few times before replenishing it with newer purchases that are ‘on trend’. By taking ownership of our personal clothing choices rather than feeling pressurised to respond to sophisticated marketing and to ‘influencers’, this book suggests how we might rethink our wardrobes in philosophical and practical ways in order to create a sense of order and beauty in our lives and to wrest control back from the increasing chaos of seemingly endless choice that perpetuates unsustainable, impersonal and fast fashion.
Автор: Lynge-Jorlen Ane Название: Fashion Stylists: History, Meaning and Practice ISBN: 1350242934 ISBN-13(EAN): 9781350242937 Издательство: Bloomsbury Academic Рейтинг: Цена: 4355.00 р. Наличие на складе: Есть у поставщика Поставка под заказ.
Описание:
Stylists have become increasingly influential in shaping fashion imagery. They have moved from the backstage, as unrecognised players, to the frontstage of fashion, becoming celebrated for their creative work as image makers for magazines, advertising and fashion designers. Yet little is known about the profession, its diverse incarnations and its aesthetic economy. Featuring contributions from leading experts and stylists, this collection is the first to explore the history, meaning and practice of fashion styling through interviews and historic and present-day case studies.
Featuring in-depth contributions from prominent fashion scholars, chapters span historical periods, cultural contexts and theoretical frameworks, employing a range of methodologies in the international case studies upon which they're based. Interspersed with interviews with innovative fashion stylists working today, and drawing on examples from advertising, the catwalk and magazines, this book explores the challenges faced by stylists in a fashion system increasingly shaped by commercial pressures and by growing numbers of collections and seasons. Fashion Stylists is an invaluable resource for students and professionals interested in image-making, the representation of style and fashion, entrepreneurship and the history of fashion professionals.
Автор: Zuo Mila Название: Vulgar Beauty: Acting Chinese in the Global Sensorium ISBN: 1478018119 ISBN-13(EAN): 9781478018117 Издательство: Mare Nostrum (Eurospan) Рейтинг: Цена: 3630.00 р. Наличие на складе: Есть у поставщика Поставка под заказ.
Описание: In Vulgar Beauty Mila Zuo offers a new theorization of cinematic feminine beauty by showing how mediated encounters with Chinese film and popular culture stars produce feelings of Chineseness. To illustrate this, Zuo uses the vulgar as an analytic to trace how racial, gendered, and cultural identity is imagined and produced through affect. She frames the vulgar as a characteristic that is experienced through the Chinese concept of weidao, or flavor, in which bitter, salty, pungent, sweet, and sour performances of beauty produce non-Western forms of sexualized and racialized femininity. Analyzing contemporary film and media ranging from actress Gong Li’s post-Mao movies of the late 1980s and 1990s to Joan Chen’s performance in Twin Peaks to Ali Wong’s stand-up comedy specials, Zuo shows how vulgar beauty disrupts Western and colonial notions of beauty. Vulgar beauty, then, becomes the taste of difference. By demonstrating how Chinese feminine beauty becomes a cinematic invention invested in forms of affective racialization, Zuo makes a critical reconsideration of aesthetic theory.
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